Where can you rappel
from waterfalls, zip in a harness across the top
of a rainforest canopy, mountain bike around an active
volcano, kayak, take a ride in an ultra-lite plane,
enjoy hours of class four whitewater rapids, explore
caves a mile and a half underground and have world
class meals? Costa Rica. Not only can you choose
from all these activities, but you can afford to
bring your family along for an adventure that teenage
kids would love. Or the trip makes for an active,
romantic adventure for lovers.
The auction for a “High adrenaline Costa Rica
adventure” by Vacation
Superdeals on Skyauction.com’s website
offered all these activities, plus accommodations,
some meals and a rental car for eight days. The thought
of rappelling down waterfalls made my stomach a little
queasy, but the price was attractive enough that
I
felt I could skip rapelling if it was too extreme
for my sense of adventure. Surprisingly, the rappelling
was not very intimidating and turned out to be really
exciting.
We booked our travel
for Thanksgiving week and flew from San Jose California
to San Jose, one of two main
airports in Costa Rica. In preparation for our adventure,
we hiked up a mountain in Los Gatos the week before
leaving, only to develop poison oak over our entire
bodies. We went to see doctors and were given steroids
and told it would be better in four days. This proved
to be wrong, and we scratched the entire trip.
The travel guide books
had said not to spend a lot of time sightseeing in
San Jose, which proved to be
good advice. We drove north, around the west coast
of the Nicoya Pinensula, in the Guanacaste province.
The itinerary had said that the drive would be about
100 miles and would take five to six hours, which
it did. The most adrenaline we felt on the entire
trip
was while driving. Between the potholes, the winding
roads and slow trucks, getting to our first destination,
Playa Samara, was like driving on an obstacle course.
The first tip should have been when the rental car
company explained that lots of accidents happen,
and if you have an accident, don’t move the car from
where it happens, call 911. Since my Cingular mobile
service worked in Costa Rica (for sixty cents per minute)
I didn’t rent the phone from the rental car company.
We passed two semis which had gone off the road, likely
avoiding head on collisions from cars passing blindly,
stopping traffic. We passed (or had pass us) ten ambulances,
though none had sirens on. We had to frequently guess
which way to go on the roads, as the maps had street
route numbers labeled, but the roads rarely had names
or numbers posted. Frequently, a road would go from
paved to dirt, or reach a fork, and you would have
to stop and ask where the road went.
Our accommodations
in Playa Samara were at the Flying
Crocodile,
a resort
purchased by a German family fifteen years ago because
it had a runway to operate an ultra-lite plane. Built
around the runway is a beautiful resort, with unique
bungalows and a friendly family-style environment.
Finding the Flying Crocodile was a challenge, as
we drove several miles down a dirt road in total
darkness,
only to run into a river which we could not cross—our
would not attempt to cross. We stopped and approached
a house on the road that had a light on, and the
owner told us that we could go back and go a different
way,
or “just cross the stream in your car”.
Luckily, I was fluent in Spanish, which really helped.
We backtracked and eventually found the resort. The
next day, in daylight, we did cross the river, which
was at least a foot and a half deep, in a Toyota
Echo, following a local who assured us that we could
make
it. This was not the only stream we crossed during
the trip.
Our next day’s schedule included a kayaking adventure
and a ride in the ultra-lite plane. We kayaked to a
beautiful island, taking time for a swim in the temperate
water. We ended up taking the ultra-lite plane trip
the next day, as the pilot wanted perfect wind conditions.
The trip was a graceful experience, offering scenes
of the beautiful beaches and crocodiles sunning along
the riverbed. The accommodations, guest and staff at
the Flying Crocodile were friendly, and the food was
excellent—served family style. From Playa Samara,
we headed up to the volcano area, Arenal. Again,
we were told that the trip should take
at least five hours. The roads were equally challenging
and we arrived into the Arenal area at dark. We had
to drive almost a third of the way around the magnificent
lake to get to the town of Fortuna. The roads were
rough and dark, and we were fortunate enough to stop
at a Real Estate office and ask for directions. We
were directed to drive another hour to get to the
town. It was with great relief that we found the
town, which
was a small tourist town at the base of the active
volcano, Arenal. The volcano is beautiful, erupting
constantly with thunder-like sounds, with debris
and smoke shooting from the top. The locals had just
thought
the volcano was a mountain until 1968, when it erupted,
wiping out a town at the base, and all the people
in the town.
We checked into our
bungalow, met up with another couple traveling on
the same itinerary, and went
into town
to have our “feast” at the La Choza de
Laurel restaurant. And what a feast it was! Six different
types of seafood, arranged family style on a platter
for four. La Choza means “the hut” in Spanish,
and the restaurant is modeled after typical Costa Rican
bungalows, where the family activities happen on the
lower floor, and sleeping accommodations are on a platform
above. The food was excellent, the service good and
friendly. The waitresses wear dresses representing
different regions daily. We ended up coming back two
more times to this restaurant, as the food was as good
as any top U.S. restaurant, and the prices very attractive—dinner
for two was $20.
The next day we went
by bus to a wooded area about ten minutes away, then
hiked into the waterfall area
to prepare to rappel down waterfalls. We strapped
on our harnesses and prepared to rappel down the
first
of five waterfalls. We stood at the top of the
first fall, which was about 150’ high, then
stepped off backwards, sliding down holding on to
a rope. It
sounds more frightening and challenging than it
actually was. We rappelled down five falls, surrounded
by lush
rainforest jungle. It was an awesome experience,
except for the itching from the poison oak. Two
Americans
started this company (Pure
Trek Adventures)
and with the idea that this could be safe and fun,
and
they take great pride in their safety procedures
and record.
That afternoon, we
went to the volcano, since the visibility was good.
On the rappelling adventure, one of the other
tourists had explained that over half of the tourists
never see the volcano due to cloud coverage. We drove
on the rocky road to the volcano lodge observation
deck, about a mile as the crow flies from the erupting
volcano, and once there, were able to see some mesmerizing
eruptions. First comes the rumbling, then the smoke,
then rocks the size of school busses come tumbling
down the side of the volcano. We hiked to a majestic
waterfall, where we swam in the water. We watched
the sunset over the beautiful lake, and then ate
dinner
while watching the hot lava spewing out the top and
dribbling down the side of the volcano. The food
was mediocre, the view spectacular.
The following day,
we headed out again by bus for our horseback ride
to the platforms where we would do the “zip
line” canopy tour. The tour started at a Hotel
Los Lagos, with beautiful grounds, a zoo and hot
thermal pools. The zip line uses
a harness attached to a pulley and wire, and you “zip” from
platform to platform over 100+ feet of rainforest
canopy. We zipped from fifteen different platforms,
which was
scenic and exhilarating. Afterwards, we soaked in
the hot thermal pools, drinking Imperial beer at
the pool
bar. That night, we went to a local pharmacy to get
something to help our itching, and we were given
injections from a doctor in a local pharmacy. Neither
of us were
concerned about getting injections in a pharmacy,
because our itching was so bad. We had taken Prednisone,
a
powerful steroid over a week earlier to clear up
the rash, along with all types of topical crèmes,
but the itching was worse. The injections helped miraculously.
Our next adventure
was whitewater rafting on the Toro River. The river
was fast-moving, and contained 45
rapids, many class IV. The tour guides were helpful
and the rapids better than the great whitewater rafting
on the Colorado and Green rivers. Other than our
poison oak itching, we had a great trip.
That night we went
to Baldi
Hot Springs to soak in naturally fed hot springs from the volcano.
The resort has 10 hot pools with different temperatures—up
to 147 degrees, fed by individual springs, two pool,
a restaurant, spa & changing rooms. It was heavenly,
except for the itching on our poison oak. The other
popular resort containing hot springs is Tabacon. Tabacon
is fairly new, and was built in the path of a volcano
lava field from a 1975 eruption. For this reason, there
are many safety warnings for people who visit that
resort.
The last full day of
our adventure included a mountain bike tour by Bike
Arenal,
around the lake at the base of the volcano. The company,
run by Americans from Ft. Collins, Colorado, provided
Canondale bikes with outstanding suspension. We had
two guides, who provided water, food and equipment
for the three hour ride. The ride included minor
elevation, which novice riders could do, though the
most challenging
part of the ride was dealing with the bumpy roads.
Bike shorts help!!
Our flight from San
Jose was at 1:50 the next day, and we decided to
drive to San Ramon that afternoon,
and then to San Jose the next morning. That turned
out to be a good decision, since we ended up at a
bridge that was completely closed and had to make
an hour
detour. At the bridge, there was a sign which said
in Spanish “Bridge in bad shape”. We didn’t
know how to make the detour and stopped at the first
of many gas stations to ask directions. We were told
that we should cross the riverbed in our car, though
this statement provoked disagreement between the three
gas station attendants. We decided not to try to do
that, as it looked to be at least two feet deep. Once
we determined which roads to take-again no street signs
or markings characterized the whole route to San Ramon—we
had a beautiful trip on decent roads. We spent a lovely
night in San Ramon before returning to the airport
to go home.
The trip exceeded our
expectations in all areas. While we purchased the
trip as a package for about $100 per
day per person for hotel, car, adventures and some
meals, the cost of the adventures, had we purchased
them individually, would have been very reasonable
by U.S. standards. The average excursion price was
around $55 per person. Upon returning home, I went
directly to Skyauction to see if there were more
of the same trips being offered. There were indeed,
and
the trip sold for under $500. I wanted to buy five
more, so I could take my teenage boys back. This
is one trip they would have loved.
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